Add a generous amount of Myke Tree and Shrub transplanter to the bottom of the hole and sprinkle the roots as well, so that they are evenly covered. For shrubs, vines, and berries, we usually recommend pruning the plant back 25 to 50% to help compensate for root damage when they were dug.Īdd an inch or two of the soil/compost mixture into the bottom of the hole - some gardeners will even put a cone of soil in the center of the hole to help hold the tree or shrub in place while backfilling. Be careful not to damage those fine root hairs when planting. Healthy roots will appear light brown, firm, and feel crisp - there may even be white, fine, new root hairs developing on older roots. Only prune the roots if they are broken or diseased. This will help eliminate stress off the roots that have been damaged from digging and transport and help them bud more evenly. Head those branches back 1/3 to 2/3 of the length. Depending on your desired tree form, leave four to six main branches and remove the rest. For trees, prune off any broken, dead or damaged, crisscrossing, and excess trunk branches. Many newly planted trees and shrubs die from poor drainage and standing water more than from lack of water.īefore planting (or right after planting), prune the tops. In heavy clay soils, we also recommend digging deeper around the outside of the hole, so that the center is higher, allowing excess water to drain away from the root system. If your soil has a high clay content, or if you encounter hardpan at the bottom of the hole, it may help to dig the holes extra deep, then backfill with your soil mix to the correct depth. Add 25 to 30% of a compost or planting mix to the soil to help with drainage and moisture absorption. Remove any rocks or debris from the soil excavated from the hole. While the plants are soaking, dig the holes two to three times larger than the diameter of the root system, and deep enough so that the graft or crown of the roots will be just above the soil line. The number one cause of failure when planting bare roots is that the delicate feeder roots dry out and lose viability. Immediately upon arrival at home, soak them in water or a root stimulator solution for 12 to 24 hours before planting to fully hydrate the root system. Do your best to make sure the roots have been covered and have remained moist during their time in the pots. The freshest root stocks have usually been hilled (covered) into large pots or barrels with a light soil/mulch combination. When purchasing your bare root plants, look for sturdy plants with strong stems, clean grafts, and no damage to the trunk or bark. Follow these simple instructions for transplanting success. Planting bare root is not hard, but there are some steps that you must follow when planting. Bare root plants are generally 25 to 40% less expensive than container plants. Second, often you can find a better selection of fruits and plants because many nurseries offer more variety in bare root than in containers. First, the plant is dormant, so it will experience less transplant shock if treated correctly. So, what does bare root mean and how do you successfully plant bare root plants?Ī bare root tree, shrub, or vine is a plant that is still dormant, and has no pot and/or no soil around its roots. Mark Anderson, owner, Anderson’s Seed and GardenĮarly spring is the best time to find bare root trees - both fruit and shade trees - and many other plants like berries and grapes.
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